Coloured Hair = Healthy Hair... its just a matter of choice.
As a stylist and educator i'm always looking for ways to obtain optimum results when I colour; however this shouldn't come at all costs. I have a very clear mindset. Coloured Hair must be Healthy Hair. All hair should be healthy hair.
I've long since seen Colour Technicians and Stylists making spontaneous decisions in their efforts to please clients in the chair instantly. Hair Colour should be viewed as a journey, when you start to consider a colour change a good Technician or Stylist will take time to explain the limitations and the expected results on visit along with a plan of what you should expect over subsequent visits.
First lets look at the hard facts about hair colour and what actually causes the damage.
Most permanent hair colour contain Ammonia and require Peroxide/ Developers to activate them. These ingredients are not actually very damaging when used in normal circumstances and by a well trained and qualified professional. The issues occur when hair has been repeatedly coloured over and over and /or there is excessive colour application to the hair, changing colours radically on a regular basis or from poor application process. Pre Lighteners and Bleaches are well known for being some of the worst culprits for hair damage.
The damage takes place various areas of the hair:
External - excessive styling, poor hair care, exposure to harsh environmental conditions, physical damage caused by brushing or tying hair up and over colouring can damage the external (cuticle) layer of the hair. Sometimes this can be so bad that the outside layer of the hair can be missing. The porosity becomes poor. This causes poor colour results that are uneven and have poor longevity.
Internal - again many of the previously mentioned actions can attribute to the internal (Cortex) of the hair being damaged. The Lipid (fatty) layer of the hair can be 'dried out' this means the moisture content of the hair has been reduced. Some colour products now contain lipid technology to be able to prevent this from happening. By far the worst hair damage is damage to the internal structure (the bonds) that make up the hair, they are it's whole structure.
Tips to prevent hair damage when colouring:
Visit a well trained and qualified Stylist
If your Stylist seeks a second opinion this should be seen a positive (2 heads are better than one)
Ask your stylist about Bond Builders (I will report more on these in my next blog post) - they will repair and reinforce the internal structure of the hair. The variation we use will reinforce and add to the bonds deep inside their hair as well as replace the Lipids along with placing a cosmetic 'cover' to replicate the outside (cuticle) layer of the hair.
Seek advice on Keratin infused shampoos and conditioners to use to maintain the hair colour and condition
Ask your stylists if they can use a 'gentler' bleach or pre lightener along with the bond builder. I love to use Silk Lift from Goldwell it gives all the lift of a traditional lightener but has IntraLipid technology to replenish the 'fatty' layer and maintain the condition.
Work out a plan with your Stylist if you're considering a colour change. We prefer to sit with our clients and plan what we are doing over 2-3 salon visits; we offer a FREE client consultation, this allows time to be spent to really get to know what each of our clients really needs. A big colour change is often best gradually.
After a great colour service I would advise purchasing salon quality hair product to maintain the great result and health of your hair.
When you leave the salon after having your hair coloured- your hair (& you) should look and feel the best it ever has. A good Stylist or Technician will give you advice on how to protect your hair and what its limitations are. A well equipped salon will have colour choices and products available to support and improve your hair condition at every stage.
I wont settle for less with my clients;
After all healthy hair coloured and styled to perfection is what we all want.